We have been under the lowest bridges and through the crowdedest locks so far. I thought the weather had finally changed to summer on Simon’s birthday which started out with glorious sunshine as we left Trebes – a particularly pretty village. We parked opposite a poissonerie where iI bought two unidentifiable bits of fish with strikingly beautiful black and blue stripes. They bar-b-qued well, very meaty if full of bones. Simon ate his birthday cake so fast I didn’t time to take a photo – a delicate little amandine tart. In the evening there was such a huge orage that we battened down the hatches and stayed in – had to make do with champagne and bread and fried chevre for dinner.
The canal is stunning along these stretches, curving and tree-lined, wonderful ancient bridges and magnificent churches everywhere we stop, sometimes open. The fresco like paintings on the walls and ceilings seems to be a particular feature here. Passing barges and hotel boats on narrow bends has been tense and we have had to keep our wits about us in locks full of hire boats on their first day out. It would be very easy to stereotype the different European nationalities from their behaviour in hire-boats. The Germans always want to go first, Italians are super friendly and clueless, Dutch people are keen to instruct others always know best, the Brits are the worst – patronising and reluctant to co-operate.
The local people are very friendly. I got lectured by an elderly French woman on my standard of dress (I had helped her when her shopping oozed out of her trundler), she told me I would never be taken seriously if I wore T-shirts, bad shoes (my sports sandals) and no jewelry.
We are in Homps to-day – internet access and showers in a very picturesque setting. Glimpses of walled gardens, summerhouses and sleepy dogs through windows in stone walls. Yesterday we went for a long bike ride in the late afternoon. We cycled through the vineyards and saw some beautiful chateaux. Little country roads with very little traffic and wonderful smells of jasmine along the way. Came back and had grilled lapin with lemon and thyme, aubergine and potatoes with a very nice bordeaux.
I am going to go and see if an art exhibition is open this afternoon, and, weather permitting, cycle back to the last lock to buy some more delicious fig jam. I have booked into a little restaurant near the old bridge for to-night.
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